Truth in Menus---not so much in the golden corner
As a restaurant owner/manager, you
have the right and obligation to
represent your food in the most attractive way--- in such a way as to
entice customers to make choices that benefit your bottom line. But, in addition to the obligation to the business,
there is an ethical and legal obligation
to your customer. For that reason, we
have Truth in Menu laws, much like the truth in advertising laws with which we
are all familiar.
As part of every culinary curriculum
across the U.S. there is a class that teaches menu management. Yes, we are taught how to graphically create
a menu, but that is a very small part of one chapter of a very large textbook. So, what is in the rest of the book? With the menu as the hub, we are taught how
to plan and execute the business model based on that menu---the food, service
and concept in that menu, everything from kitchen and front of the house
design, to human resource requirements, ingredient sourcing, food preparation, to
cost control as well as sanitation and safety.
Unfortunately, there is little or nothing about truth in menu. Perhaps that is why there are so many Untruths in Menus, here in the Golden
Corner of South Carolina.
The purpose of Truth in Menu laws is
to protect the consumer---to ensure that the food is represented in such a way
that what the customer gets is what the customer expects. For example, if a menu item is described as
gluten free, then it MUST be that. If
the cooking method is described as char-grilled, then it cannot be pan
fried. If the price is $ 9.00 for one
dozen mussels, then there MUST be one dozen mussels served. If it specifies, Prince Edward Island (PEI) Blue mussels, then it must be one dozen, PEI Blue mussels. Do you see where I am going with this?
During our hiatus from Beyond the
Bull, and on our quest to find a new location, we have spent a great deal of
time eating out, mostly to see how our competitors do it, but sometimes to
consider purchasing the business or equipment.
So we get to see a lot of horrifying kitchens as well as unsafe
practices. But, what disturbs me the
most is when I am the customer and I have to pay for something that is NOT what
I expected. Although I would like to
list the restaurant name, address and all of the specifics in each of the
examples that follow, my business ethics got in the way and prohibited me from
doing so. I am certain that in some
cases, the menu is not meant to mislead, as certain as I am that in some cases,
it is.
On the other hand, I feel an
obligation to blow the whistle on behalf of my fellow diners in the Anderson,
Clemson and Seneca areas. So here is my
list of the most frequently published untruths
from some of the most popular menus in the area. The next time you see one of these, you might
want to ask the server for the truth
in the menu:
Food
ingredient source

Item
name
If I order a menu item that is
called roasted lamb lollipop, I want ground lamb on a stick, and I want it
roasted. But this fine establishment in
Anderson served me mini lamb chops, with grill marks---what? Call it what it is!
Made
from scratch

Heatlthy
No one should make this claim on a menu
unless it is proven by a dietician and documented. Yet the word “healthy” is used somewhere on
half of the menus I have read in the last three months. Not only is it most likely an untruth, but it can be a
harmful claim to an uninformed consumer with diabetes, obesity, heart disease,
etc.
Grilled
or roasted
Last month we dined in a restaurant
in Ram Cat Alley that offered a grilled fish selection. What I expected was grill marks from a
char-grill. What I got was a blackened
fish cooked on the flat top, basically fried in a butter flavored oil. An order of roasted lamb came out as a chop
with grill marks, a grilled chicken breast was roasted and an order of wilted greens
were steamed or boiled.
Fresh
Fresh frozen is not fresh! This is an especially common untruth applied
to seafood products. In case you haven’t
notice, The Golden Corner of South Carolina is not on the coast. Unless it was flown from the dock to the
restaurant, it is not fresh. That is not
to say that there is anything wrong with fresh frozen. And
in my opinion, fresh frozen at sea will beat fresh in quality, texture and
flavor. Even on the coast, if it’s not
from a day boat, it ain’t fresh, folks.
Farm
to table
Farm to table, local, fresh,
sustainable, all have different meanings, but to most consumers, they may as
well be synonymous because most consumers think they are getting food right
from the farm without any middle man or additives. Advertising your restaurant as farm to table simply
because you use local suppliers is an untruth.
Farm to table only exists where the food ingredients, basically protein
and produce, are farmed, processed and prepared for dining---from the farm to
the restaurant table. How many of those are in the Golden Corner?
Buyer beware! The next time you dine out, read the menu
with a new perspective and ask your server for the truth. If you are like me, I work hard at making a
living and if I am buying a dozen steamed-in-lager, farm-raised littleneck clams
from South Carolina, with house made heart healthy cocktail sauce, don’t serve
me less than a dozen, boiled in salted water, wild littlenecks, with ketchup
(not healthy) to which you add bottled lemon juice concentrate and horseradish sauce from a jar. And if you do, I am not paying for it!
EAT SMART, and
speak up, America!
Buon Appetito e Buona Salute, Chef AngelaB
P.S. For those of you following
Beyond the Bull, we have narrowed our search for a new location to two, both in
Clemson---stay tuned!